MONTEPULCIANO - Wine, Wine & More Wine
ABOUT: Montepulciano is southern Tuscany’s highest hill-town (at 664m/2,178 ft.), it sits above the fields of Sangiovese vines and the views from the old town are breath taking. Reminders of the towns boom-time line its most prestigious streets and main square, Piazza Grande. Florence’s finest architects left several palaces, giving the place a refined air that has lasted to this day.
The Montepulciano wine scene revolves around the historic Tuscan hilltop town of Montepulciano and its famed Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG. It is known for its steep, stone-paved streets, dramatic underground cellars hidden beneath Renaissance palaces, and rich red wines made primarily from the Prugnolo Gentile (Sangiovese) grape.
The three famous wines from this area are:
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG: Tuscany’s first DOCG, aged for at least two years. It is elegant, structured, and complex, with flavors of dark cherry, plum, and subtle spices.
Rosso di Montepulciano DOC: The "younger sibling" to the Nobile. It is fruit-forward, approachable, and spends less time aging, making it an excellent pairing for everyday meals.
Vin Santo di Montepulciano: A traditional sweet dessert wine made from dried grapes, often enjoyed locally alongside cantucci (almond biscotti)
WHAT TO DO: It is a stiff, uphill walk from the Porta al Prato along the length of Montepulciano’s main street is among the most genteel of the Tuscan towns. At Montepulciano’s highest point, standing right in the middle of Piazza Grande graces you with a 360-degree architectural panorama. On the squares west side, you find the Palazzo Comunale, built in the late 1300s then revamped in 1424 by one of the Medici’s favorite architects, Michelozzo, in homage to Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio. Its roof is the best perch for seeing the lay of the land around Montepulciano. Views stretch as far as Monte Amiata, a 1738m/5,702-ft extinct lava dome, that looms over much of southern Tuscany.
On the east side of the piazza, you can enjoy a wine tasting at Gattavecchi, which sells a range of wines from everyday drinking reds to small-batch, concentrated Vino Nobile labels such as their Parceto, from its tasting room next to the church of Santa Maria Dei Servi. The ambiance is great as the tasting room is located in a cellar, a simple, previously a tiny underground chapel carved out of the tufa rock. On the south side is the never-finished façade of the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta, Montepulciano’s 16th-century cathedral. The dark interior is illuminated (literally) by a gold altarpiece, by Taddeo di Bartolo (1401), showing the Assumption (raising to heaven) of the Virgin Mary.
For a real treat,for those that have a car, we recommend going just a bit out of town to Golo Winery, owned by Niall and Pari O’Toole. While not of Italian decent, they are fully committed to maintaining the traditions of the Montepulciano wines and have created quite the portfolio of wines to taste. Reservations are strongly recommended for tastings due to a high demand for their wines and limited spaces. The wines are paired with sourced meats and cheeses, and occasionally a story or two from Niall. For those that would like to stay in this area, Golo Winery has six lovely suites in which to drop your suitcase and really get to explore the richness of this wine valley.
In late August, the Bravio delle Botti sees teams from Montepulciano’s eight neighborhoods race giant wine barrels for a mile or so up the steep Corso. It’s all carried out in medieval garb.
WHAT TO EAT: If you are a foodie that prefers great ingredients served simply, rather than fussy “cuisine” — this is the right part of Tuscany for you. Meat is the main event on most menus, typically beef. One of the more highly recommended restaurants is the Osteria Acquacheta, your selected cut of meat is brought to your table for approval, then cooked (briefly… it’s rare or nothing here) over the flame grill. The real magic is the produce: all locally sourced, all seasonal, and all prepared in-house every morning. Seating is cramped, essentially, so this isn’t a place for a romantic meal; however, it is a food experience you will not forget. To be honest, there are so many amazing places to eat, that the problem may be deciding which great restaurant to go to.
Another great place is RISTORANTE CANTINA GATTAVECCHI, which has a cool, vaulted dining room and outdoor terrace also host La Cucina di Lilian, an informal kitchen that zeroes in on ingredients from the surrounding hills. Expect well-prepared Tuscan standards when it comes to pasta courses and secondi that get to the heart of la cucina poliziana, with dishes such as roast pork with almond cream.
To be honest, it is hard to find a bad restaurant in Montepulciano, so if these two are busy when you are visiting, don’t despair, we are certain you will find something amazing.
WHERE TO PARK: The Parcheggio San Donato would be best, but doesn’t have a lot of stalls: https://maps.app.goo.gl/6tB7kTGAoUWUxSWP7?g_st=com.google.maps.preview.copy
The Parcheggio no. 8 is close and larger, but it requires to walk a dirt path uphill: https://maps.app.goo.gl/TzmPjzALPxGKrKDFA?g_st=com.google.maps.preview.copy
There are more on the opposite side of town, near Porta al Prato, but they are a longer walk to Piazza Grande.
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